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philodendron stenolobum propagation

philodendron stenolobum propagation Thaumatophyllum stenolobum – Narrow Wavy Leaves

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Description

philodendron stenolobum propagation Thaumatophyllum stenolobum – Narrow Wavy LeavesThaumatophyllum stenolobum Narrow lobed Brazilian aroid with sculptural foliage Thaumatophyllum stenolobum (E. G. Gon.) Sakur., Calazans and Mayo formerly Philodendron stenolobum is a self heading, terrestrial aroid from Brazils Atlantic Forest. Long, narrow, deeply lobed leaves with gentle waves along the margins create a striking, architectural silhouette. Mature leaves commonly reach 60 100 cm, and well grown plants form a broad, upright rosette

Thaumatophyllum stenolobum – Narrow-lobed Brazilian aroid with sculptural foliage

Thaumatophyllum stenolobum (E.G. Gonç.) Sakur., Calazans and Mayo – formerly Philodendron stenolobum – is a self-heading, terrestrial aroid from Brazil’s Atlantic Forest. Long, narrow, deeply lobed leaves with gentle waves along the margins create a striking, architectural silhouette. Mature leaves commonly reach 60 – 100 cm, and well-grown plants form a broad, upright rosette that anchors a room.

Notable characteristics of Thaumatophyllum stenolobum

  • Leaf architecture: Elongated blades divided into many slender lobes; semi-gloss surface with firm texture.
  • Self-heading habit: Upright rosette on a short, decumbent to semi-erect stem with adventitious roots for stability.
  • Interior scale: Indoors typically 1.2 – 1.5 m tall with a similar spread when mature.

Origin, size and growth habit

Native to eastern Brazil within the Atlantic Forest biome, where warm temperatures, filtered light and high ambient humidity prevail. Growth is moderate; foliage size and lobe definition improve with age, space and light quality.

Light, water and humidity – dialing in consistent growth

  • Light: Bright, indirect or lightly filtered light drives larger leaves and sharper lobes. Avoid sustained midday sun that can scorch margins.
  • Water: Water when the top 2 – 3 cm of mix is dry. Keep evenly moist in active growth; never waterlogged.
  • Seasonal adjustment: In cooler, lower-light months, slow watering cadence to match reduced evaporation while preventing full dry-down.
  • Humidity: Comfortable at 50 – 60%, with best results 60 – 75% for glossy, edge-clean foliage.
  • Temperature: Ideal 18 – 28 °C; protect from cold drafts and sudden temperature dips.

Soil recipe and pot choice

  • Mix: Airy aroid substrate: ~40% high-quality peat-free compost, 30% medium orchid bark, 20% perlite or pumice, 10% coco coir or fine bark. Aim for high aeration with steady moisture holding.
  • Container: Pot with generous drainage and a stable base. Slightly snug pots help avoid oversaturation while the root system establishes.

Feeding, repotting and pruning

  • Fertiliser: Every 4 – 6 weeks during active growth with a balanced liquid feed on moist substrate. A touch more nitrogen in spring supports leaf production.
  • Repotting: Every 2 – 3 years or when roots circle the base; step up one size to maintain aeration.
  • Pruning: Remove yellowing or damaged leaves at the base; rotate the plant periodically for even light exposure.

Propagation options

  • Division: Separate basal offsets during repotting, ensuring each division has roots and a viable growing point.
  • Stem sections: Possible from mature stems with visible nodes; allow cuts to callus before potting into airy mix.
  • Semi-hydro: Adapts to inert substrates (e.g., expanded clay) with careful moisture and nutrient control.

Troubleshooting growth and foliage problems

  • Leaf edges browning: Typically low humidity or uneven moisture. Stabilise humidity and avoid large wet – dry swings.
  • Yellowing leaves: Often saturated mix or poor drainage. Improve aeration and adjust watering cadence.
  • Weak lobing or smaller leaves: Insufficient light or nutrients. Increase filtered light and resume balanced feeding.
  • Pests: Monitor for spider mites and thrips. Rinse foliage and treat with insecticidal soap as needed.

Styling ideas

  • Stage as a statement floor specimen in minimalist or modern interiors.
  • Pair with broad-leaf Anthurium or Monstera for layered texture and height contrast.
  • Use warm-toned, matte planters to emphasise the narrow, rhythmic lobes.

Etymology and taxonomy

Thaumatophyllum combines Greek “thauma” (wonder) + “phyllon” (leaf), reflecting dramatic foliage across the genus. Reclassified from Philodendron to Thaumatophyllum in 2018 based on morphology and phylogeny.

Add Thaumatophyllum stenolobum to cart

Secure a sculptural Brazilian aroid with long, narrow, deeply lobed leaves and a clean, upright habit. Thaumatophyllum stenolobum brings impactful form with straightforward, science-based care – a true anchor plant for serious collections.

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★★★★★ 5
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We're very pleased with this unit. We use a 3.1 system in our TV area, stereo plus center channel and subwoofer. It's nice that this unit supports that. We get very nice imaging from this, and don't really miss the surround speakers. **We had to replace the old HDMI cables with new ones that could handle the larger bandwidth of 4K. If you're cables are 5-10 years old like ours, newer cables are required to carry a modern video signal. We like the Yamaha sound, and are able to EQ it easily to sound right for the room. I've used several receivers over the years of various brands. Yamaha consistently delivers good sound and reliable product. I've never had a Yamaha product fail and fewer than 15 years. There are other units out there with more gadgets and gizmos, bills and whistles, not to mention smoke and mirrors. We want a good sounding reliable unit that plays nice with all of our AV sources and TVs. If that's what you're looking for, look no further than this unit right here. If you get a good price on this, it's unbeatable. Sony, Onkyo, Denon, Marantz, etc. - they all make good units with signature sounds. If you aren't familiar with them, and If you can't listen to a bunch of stuff, buy this with confidence. Here's an unsolicited recommendation: high quality speakers will do more to improve your listening experience than any receiver. If you're looking for an upgrade, start with your front speakers.
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RX 385 replaces my much-loved 10 year old RX 375, which I inadvertently fried while experimenting. The 385 has some newer features, including bluetooth. The old model and this both use the handy YPAO function to tune the audio speakers' depth of field to the listening environment. It's a broadcast mic that you just plug into the front of the receiver for a few seconds to determine each speakers' distance from viewer. Kind of a sonic echo measurement of seating to speaker. It's a foolproof, remarkably clever, timesaving gizmo. The YPAO mic is absolutely included with this unit, looks like a little plastic cone. Also important to me, Yamaha has replaced the old spring clips for rear/side speakers, which are now the better screw and cap posts, as they have always been for the two front speakers. I recommend rocketfish HDMI 4k/8k cables to connect this receiver to your tv and to whatever other components you want, such as a bluray. Sound quality is excellent if your speakers are good. (I like KEFs.) Of course you may prefer wireless speakers, but I'm already committed to wired ones. I used rocktfish banana plugs to connect my speaker wires to the RX 385 receiver's speaker posts. Neat and clean. With a choice of 2 front, 2 rear, 1 center speaker, plus one coaxial plug in for a subwoofer, your movies and programs are going to sound far more detailed and staged than you'd get from the tv or a sound bar. It's a more immersive and compelling experience. (I use only 2 fronts and 2 rears and don't feel I'm missing anything.) Yamaha receivers and other components are my favorites: relatively inexpensive, well designed, solidly built, and not fussy to install. If you find yourself in a pickle there are a couple of helpful youtube videos. I find with the RX385 again that Yamaha does not disappoint me.
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phil
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Works great, was worried about having my hdmi run through it thinking id have to use it all the time but leaving it off the signal still goiles through to the TV. Very rleasy to hook up and very easy to use.
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If you have a set of LED lights that didn't come with a harness , you can't beat this for the price. By the time you figure in the cost of the parts ( wire, switch, crimps/connectors, not to mention a relay if you are using one) to hardwire a set of lights, let alone the time to assemble, this set up is cheaper by far. harness length is ample, you get a pair of pigtails with connectors for a pair of lights, the relay, switch, fuse block and fuse, and ring terminals for power all assembled for what a switch and some wire would cost. Made everything quick, cheap, and easy.
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Miguel
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Great wiring harness for light installations.
Size: 16AWG Wiring Harness-2 Leads, Size: 16AWG Wiring Harness-2 Leads
This is a great wiring harness for LED lights. These come in one or two leads application. All that means is that they come ready for one or two lights, depending on your installation. The plug in connectors for each light comes with the set so that is a plus. I’ve attached a picture of the plug/connector for the lights so you can take a look at them. Although the relay is an “overkill” for low wattage LEDs, it’s OK to have it just in case you decide to change your lights for larger ones or halogens, in the future. In my case I will be using this harness in my motorcycle. It is very long for my need, which is great for cars, but too long for motorcycles since you have to remember that room/space is scarce in motorcycles. I ended up cutting the wires to my desired length and using heat shrink butt connectors and “glued” heat shrink covers for waterproofing the connection points. All in all these are great quality and I am very happy with them.
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